Vogue Paris March 2011: Expression Figurative
By Jessica Eritou
Styled by Melanie Ward, Anna de Rijk shines in the Vogue Paris editorial “Expression Figurative.” Each photo captures the essence of expressionism down to its key elements, some with a brave avant-garde and dramatic thematic work of a veil, while focusing on different elements of a feature on a women's face. Each dramatic element of the shot is simplified as one exaggerated element, while that facet is elevated and seen as fanatical.
Photographed by both Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, de Rijk is first seen with a vintage Chanel veil, matched with pearls and a basic crew neck sweater. With the veil with appliquéd Chanel logos, this shot seems more suited for a campaign than a true fashion editorial. The mood is cold, and de Rijk seems distant to the viewer, but perhaps it is the reputation of exclusivity of Chanel they are trying to capture.
The second page features an ink-blotted rose, while the flower is broken down to its basic elements, it is featured so striking and vivid. The petals are very similar to the classic Chanel brooches you could wear. Perhaps an ode to those? The next shot continues the theme of the flower, including another veil, but this time the focus is on the sequined lips which is the main focal point in the shot. Again, the tone and mood is cold, and you are seen looking at the model, from the bottom up. She appears to be uninviting with a glazed over look to her. However, this shot does have a greater impact and receptive response than the first. This look is reminiscent of Hedi Slimane's new interpretation of Saint Laurent with slight gothic tones and punk rock aesthetic.
Next, continuing the theme of veils, the shot features de Rijk with a veil over her eyes with the focus on the sequined eyes of gold and green, which conveniently goes with the large gold chain choker, paired with a strong bold lip. Less cold and serious, this look is carefully crafted, emphasizing the thematic colors of the gold and overall composition. This look is more playful than the rest, making an ode to Eyes Wide Shut. The shot is simple, but expressive enough, conveying the message. The message that is really shown could perhaps be indicating we are blinded by superficiality (shown with the expensive gold chain and matching eye-sequins), and what we see is indeed false.
De Rijk is seen next with a black veil covering her whole face, but this time, from the neck up. Her cheekbone is featured and her Aztec inspired makeup is painted on while the elements of her face are broken down into geometric shapes almost as if it were a Cubist painting of Picasso, emphasizing the theme of abstraction. She is seen with black feathers which frame her face and a high top bun so the viewer's eye immediately is drawn in to her strong facial features. This is one of the more powerful shots in this editorial since there are more elements and themes happening compared to the others. Why is the model entrapped in this circus type veil? Her stare remains cold to the viewer. Yet there is still a playful element we have seen now already in the work. De Rijk appears to be solemn and enervated, which might be questionable for this piece since it is called “Expression Figurative” and appears apathetic.
In the last shot, while there may not be a veil, de Rijk is wearing a leather newsboy cap which extracts the remains of the composition to focus on her one smoky eye as the main focal point in the shot. Her pale lips and yellow nails balance out the composition of the harsh and dramatic eye for an overall serious but nubile tone for the final piece in the editorial. This last shot does not coincide with the others and seems like it should not belong with the rest. Even though it is the same model, it has a different energy and a different mood compared to the rest.
More from Vogue Paris March 2011
Vogue Paris March 2011: Audace Manifeste
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Vogue Paris March 2011: Body Secrets
By Bernie Rothschild
Vogue Paris March 2011: Coeur À Corps Perdu
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Vogue Paris March 2011: La Fee Toxique
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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2011 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.