I Want To Be A Roitfeld

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Entries in Carine Roitfeld (599)

jeudi
déc.202012

The Fantastic World Of Dior Couture

The Fantastic World Of Dior Couture
By Bernie Rothschild

Rizzoli published the book Dior Couture last autumn which contains the greatest hits of the Maison de Christian Dior. The book showcases the house from the revolutionary New Look of 1947 to the hip and beatnik designs of Yves Saint Laurent, from the simplicity and practicality of Marc Bohan on to the colorful Gianfranco Ferre, and ends with the glorious years of John Galliano. Patrick Demarchelier captured the most fantastic dresses in the most exquisite locations in France, Shanghai, and New York, as worn by the most beautiful female models in the world from Gisele Bündchen to Charlize Theron. For V Magazine's model issue last year, Carine Roitfeld styled an editorial featuring the dresses of Dior, many of which were designed by John Galliano.

Christian Dior is known as one of the greatest couturiers of our time. He defined glamour around the world after the devastating war with his New Look that set the standard for women everywhere. It was 1947, two years after World War II. The world was at peace at last but women all over the world were experiencing an identity crisis, they were completely lost and unsure as to what to wear. Then Dior showed his first collection. The dresses featured the waist and the bust with accentuated jackets and above-the-knee skirts. That was then controversial and some even considered it vulgar. The collection was originally called "Corolla" but then the legendary Carmel Snow of Harper's Bazaar announced to Mr. Dior and the press that "It's such a New Look!" and the glamorous style of the century was born. Everyone from all walks of life copied and followed the New Look, although some criticized Dior for using expensive fabrics while others did not have enough to eat. The French, however, hailed Christian Dior as a hero for once again putting Paris on the map and for his fashion influence in the 1940s and the 1950s. The New Look was highly praised and popular, Mr. Dior even presented it to the French Embassy in Britain with Elizabeth, the Queen Mother; Marina, the Duchess of Kent; her sister Olga of Yugoslavia; and Princess Margaret (herself a great supporter of Dior) as the audience. Rumors suggest that the then Princess Elizabeth (now the Queen) stopped by to see the collection as well. Christian Dior designs were worn not just by the blue blooded women of the world but also the most glamorous movie stars of that era: Garbo, Dietrich, and Monroe, to name a few. But all great things are not meant to last... sadly a mere decade after changing the world of fashion with his vision, Christian Dior died of a heart attack.

At the tender age of 21, Dior's assistant, Yves Saint Laurent, took over as the house designer. His first collection in 1958 featured a softer version of the New Look and the French hailed YSL as "The man who saved France" as well as the savior that rescued the Maison Dior from the verge of bankruptcy. Just like Mr. Dior in 1947, Saint Laurent's first collection in which he showcased the trapeze line was praised by the press. They said that "Saint Laurent has saved France — the great Dior tradition will continue." His design had caused an enormous commotion. He even went out to the balcony to wave to the cheering people as if he was the new king of France. Notably Saint Laurent also designed the wedding dress of Farah Diba, the last empress of Persia.

Another high point in the history of Dior came in the spring of 1997, when British designer John Galliano was chosen to head the house. Originally from Givenchy, the owner of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, chose him to succeed Gianfranco Ferre as the chief designer of Dior. Known for his theatrical and feminine designs, Galliano's first collection was praised for restoring the beauty and the elegance that had been missing from Dior. His designs were inspired by historical figures such as Cleopatra, Marie Antoinette, and Pocahontas, as well as romantic novels and poetry. He even glamorized homelessness and poverty in one of his collections. Celebrities embraced the beauty of Galliano's designs. But the decadence, eccentricity, and theatrical nature of his shows caused critics to question the wearability of his designs, insisting that he was not a designer but a costumier. Nevertheless the Dior couture presentation was the hottest show in town.

In January 1998, Galliano's spring 1998 couture collection based on the Italian eccentric Marchesa Luisa Casati inspired the world to go crazy over him, just like the moments of Christian Dior in 1947 and Yves Saint Laurent in 1958. The collection showcased a heavily embroidered Oriental coat, suits referencing the Ballets Russes and Edwardian styles, and an updated version of the Dior "Junon" dress. The show was so spectacular that it was widely considered the collection of the season. Galliano was also recognized by the CFDA, winning the award for International Designer of the Year, and showed this epic collection that amazed the American audience. John Galliano didn't just return the couture line to profitability but also revived Dior's ready-to-wear market that during his first years had no difference from his couture collection. In the summer of 1999, Galliano's contract with LVMH was renewed and this time he was put in charge of everything... the store and window design, the accessories, the lingerie and beach wear, the ad campaigns... For the turn of the millennium, he gave the Dior woman a new sex appeal by embracing the style of the street, from drag queens to hip-hop, from BDSM to rock 'n' roll. Galliano proved to his critics that he could design sportswear as well. Note also that Dior under Galliano is one of the many design houses who embraced the logomania of the year 2000.

His tradition of theatrical femininity continued with Galliano's spring 2004 couture collection that was inspired by his trip to Egypt, it was the most celebrated collection of the new millennium for the House of Dior. The pyramid-shaped clothes with the Egyptian Nefertiti headpiece crowns and the glamour of the Penn and Avedon photos of the 1950s. The box-shaped hair from the collection took Orlando Pita three days to create. The innovation of Galliano in this collection makes it one of the most memorable periods of his reign at Dior. Even Bernard Arnault once compared him to Christian Dior. But Galliano's tenure at Dior ended in an ill-fated manner, the anti-semitic remark that he made while drunk induced LVMH to cancel his contract, although it had been rumored for a long time that they had wanted to oust him. He was hurt and humiliated by the situation and also by his legion of followers. It was the end of an era. Everyone is still waiting to see what Galliano's next step will be. His talent is such a shame to be wasted. Dior won't ever be the same from the moment he left. Will he suffer a similar fate to Coco Chanel who was accused of being a Nazi collaborator? (Keep in mind that after a few years she made her marvelous comeback). His admirers wish him the best and only time can tell but I certainly hope he will have a triumphant return to the fashion world soon.

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Dior photographs © 2011 and 2012 Condé Nast, Christian Dior, Rizzoli, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and V Magazine, LLC, and courtesy of tumblr. "Dovima and the elephants" designed by Yves Saint Laurent under Christian Dior. Photo by Richard Avedon.

dimanche
déc.162012

Carine Roitfeld For Dior: Grand Bal Holiday Collection

Perhaps, like me, you are curious about the specifics of the new Dior “Grand Bal” limited edition holiday collection for which Carine Roitfeld styled a striking campaign in collaboration with Daria Strokous and Steven Meisel. If you are looking for a chic and sparkling approach to glamour for your special occasion, these irresistible little gems imagined by Dior may be perfect… Eyes glowing… Lips blazing… Skin shimmering ever so slightly… With this richly seductive palette, Dior sets the gold standard for glamorous makeup essentials this season. My favorite: the false eyelashes adorned with gold Swarovski crystals, très sexy, très chic.

Dior Grand Bal Couture Makeup Palette

Dior Grand Bal False Lashes

5 Couleurs
Colors: Night Golds, Fairy Golds

Diorific Lipstick
Colors: Diorling, Diva, Lady, Marilyn

Diorshow Extase Mascara
Color: Black

Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss
Colors: Lamé Gold, Ceremony Red

Lamé Gold

Ceremony Red

Diorskin Poudre Libre
Color: Gold Dust

Vernis Diorific Nail Lacquer
Colors: Diorling , Marilyn, Lady, Diva

Diorling

Marilyn

Lady

Diva

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Christian Dior product images © 2012 Christian Dior. All Rights Reserved.

vendredi
déc.142012

Carine Roitfeld For Dior: Grand Bal Noël

Just in time for the holiday season, Christian Dior has revamped their "Grand Bal" beauty collection with glamorous limited editions; best of all, Carine Roitfeld continues to style the advertising campaigns for the house. The stunning images feature Daria Strokous as shot by Steven Meisel, be sure to view the campaign video for more glamour...

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Christian Dior advertising campaign images © 2012 Christian Dior. All Rights Reserved.

jeudi
déc.132012

Mode/Sport: Vogue Paris November 2004

Mode/Sport: Vogue Paris November 2004
By Dara Block

I don't know about you, but I am still in denial that Carine Roitfeld has even left Vogue Paris. For some odd reason, every month, when I skim through the pages of Vogue Paris magazine I still look for one of Carine Roitfeld's amazingly chic, yet highly personal, editor's notes. Yes, I know she is now on to new and other interesting projects like CR Fashion Book, but I like to think that she is still subconsciously contributing to the magazine. Recently, I started to think about some of her most memorable and iconic issues of Vogue Paris. Naturally, there are so many to discuss, but if there was one that has left a huge impact on my personal style it would have to be the November 2004 issue dedicated to sportswear. What I appreciate so much about this particular issue was the way in which Carine Roitfeld was able to take such glamorous looks and transform them into so many athletic inspired fashion spreads. She totally brought new meaning to the term "sporty-chic." So, with all that in mind, I thought it would be appropriate to take a glimpse inside this unforgettable and groundbreaking issue!

First of all, let's just take a moment to examine this gorgeous cover. The striking image was photographed by Mario Testino and featured Kate Moss looking extra sporty-chic in a Nike sports bra and shorts mixed in with a green Gucci fur coat for some added glamour. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld styled this cover and I so love how she placed that Gucci fur over her Nike ensemble… very high fashion, but yet still very athletic-looking. Only Carine Roitfeld could style this look together so cool and nonchalantly!

Carine Roitfeld also dedicates a page in the issue to photographer Mario Testino. After all, he helped Carine out with many of the stunning athletic inspired editorials in this issue. It’s quite obvious that Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld work so well together and I love how beautifully he executed her sportswear vision in this issue. I also think it’s quite cool how she featured a photo of Mario Testino, himself, playing tennis… if you look closely you can see him in action on the court. Those impromptu photos go so perfectly with the whole sportswear theme.

Next up is Carine Roitfeld's iconic editor's note. In it, she talks about how inspired she was by Olympic athletes, their bodies, and how they move within space. She also shared how delighted she was to have Mario Testino take part in this issue especially because he was able to turn all her athletic ideas into a reality. I so love the montage of sporty inspired images she has put together. Nobody can put together and style an editor's note quite like Carine Roitfeld.

Following the editor's note comes “Ski Fantaisies” which is a beautiful montage of ski-wear mixed in with the season's hottest winter looks. Since this issue came out in November of 2004, the timing was perfect to showcase some winter-chic inspired looks with a Carine Roitfeld sensibility. I so love how she reminisced back to some retro ski-looks, but also mixed it up with Polaroid images of the current season's winter looks by Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, and The Gap to display how the winter ski look can be both glamorous but yet, very easy to wear, as well!

After “Ski Fantaisies” comes “Agenda,” in which Vogue Paris takes an inside look at designer Stella McCartney's collaboration with the Adidas label. I so appreciate how the magazine showcases some sporty looks from Stella McCartney's Fall/Winter 2004 collection and relates it to her line for Adidas. There are definitely some sporty-chic connections and its quite amazing to see how sportswear has transformed into such a high-fashion concept… brilliantly conveyed!

Next comes “Flashbackwhich features a photograph of supermodel Veruschka taken in 1968, by Franco Rubartelli. It’s obvious what a great inspiration this winter ski photo was to Carine Roitfeld and to the Vogue Paris team for this issue. What is not to love about this image… the styling is impeccable with that turtleneck and all those extra added winter accessories. This is truly the Vogue Paris way of going skiing in 1968 and for today, as well!

Following the “Flashback” photograph comes “Mode/Sport” an astounding collaboration between Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld showcasing how sportswear and athletic style has changed the way both men and women dress in their everyday lives. The concept is quite simple, but yet very forward-thinking in terms of style!

First comes “Hors-Piste”in which Carine Roitfeld takes various winter ski looks and translates them for the modern-day woman. One of my favorite looks featured in the editorial was this sleeping bag coat by Maison Martin Margiela. I love how cool, comfortable, and cutting edge this model looks in her coat. It is as if she just got out of bed and perhaps even wore her bed spread and just decided to go skiing. On a side note, H&M is now selling a new version of the very same Margiela sleeping bag coat. I actually just purchased it and I must say I use this Mario Testino image as my total style inspiration.

There are also some extra amazing photos in this ski editorial featuring stylish ski masks and even some other sleeping bag coat looks from designer Norma Kamali, as well.

Next comes “Classe de Neige,” which takes an in-depth look at the sporty-chic ski-look and how it has influenced ready to wear winter style throughout the years. I so love the montage of paparazzi images. The photos range from Jackie O. and Renee Zellweger to Princess Diana… showing off their best winter ski attire! With all these pics you clearly can see how ski style has inspired many fashion designers and stylists.

Following “Classe de Neige” comes “Figures Libres,” which features supermodel Kate Moss in some of the season's hottest sporty looks. This is my favorite editorial in the entire issue because all the looks featured are so effortless and easy to copy. In addition, Carine Roitfeld beautifully depicts how sporty fashion can be both stylish, but also very affordable, as well. By far, this is one of the most relatable layouts. I constantly use these images as inspiration when I go to the gym to work out!

Next comes “Fatale do Brazil” which showcases more sporty-chic looks from designers like Calvin Klein and John Galliano to the more affordable Nike label. I so love all the body motions captured in these images. It’s got a very stylish cardio-barre look, mixed in with a noir sensibility. This is certainly the way the Vogue Paris woman likes to works out!

After comes “GoldGirl.”This is a stunning editorial featuring many gold inspired looks on supermodel Hana Soukupova. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld had many inspirations for this editorial. Her influences range from Marilyn Monroe, The Bee Gees, David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust, to even the hip-hop style of Run-DMC. I think if you study the style in this layout you can totally see all that combined. Hana Soukupova looks completely elegant, but yet still rock n' roll with a touch of hip-hop. Only Carine Roitfeld could manage to blend all these elements together so elegantly!

The next brilliant editorial is entitled “Jeux Interdits” which features interesting ingenues like Joanna Preiss and Elettra Rossellini in 2004's hottest athletic-inspired ensembles. Personally, I love seeing Elettra Rossellini as David Bowie in Christian Dior. She looks very sporty-chic with a total John Galliano edge.

The last layout features model and actress Elizabeth Hurley in various black dresses by designers like Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. What I love most about these images is that Elizabeth Hurley is looking so glamorous and chic while she is working out. Only Carine Roitfeld would envision something like this. I so appreciate the humor of this editorial. Carine Roitfeld brilliantly conveys with this layout how one should always look their best even when working out on a treadmill.

As we can see, Carine Roitfeld has completely transformed the idea of sportswear with this November 2004 issue. I so appreciate all the athletic themed looks featured… Mario Testino captured Carine Roitfeld's vision so perfectly. I must admit that whenever I look through certain magazines and see their depictions of sportswear I find myself uninspired and bored, but with this particular issue you can truly see sporty individuality at its finest… so many fashion possibilities to choose from, making it a total Vogue Paris classic. Carine Roitfeld clearly shows how both men and women can be both casual-cool in their sportswear, but yet completely sophisticated at the same time.. something I don't think that many people realize can go together so easily.

Brava to Carine Roitfeld for showing Americans and the rest of the world how sporty-chic is properly done. Indeed, this is one of her most memorable issues! On that note, I think it’s time to put on my Nike bodysuit and fur coat and head to the gym, see you there!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
déc.082012

Carine Roitfeld: H.R.H. R.E.S.P.E.C.T.

Carine Roitfeld joined forces with Mario Testino to create “H.R.H. R.E.S.P.E.C.T.” for The Face and she talks about the inspiration behind this editorial: “When I see this English girl, I thought ‘She looks like Princess Anne.’ It’s a bit sad, because when we did this story, Diana was still alive; now it’s a bit trickier but at the time, we were thinking ‘Diana, Fergie — now it’s Anne’s time!’” It is actually a bit spooky, or bizarrely prescient… This “heartfelt tribute to the Princess Royal” by Roitfeld and Testino was published in July 1997, as were Testino’s portraits of Diana for Vanity Fair, widely considered the turning point of his career. Princess Diana passed away on 31 August 1997. Eery, I know. I love the stylist’s choices for the shoot, the clothing and accessories are brilliant, particularly the use of her own royal sash, vive Queen Carine.

  • White hand-painted t-shirt by APC; black trousers by Vivienne Westwood; pearl necklace by Dary’s; crocodile handbag from Parisian flea market.
  • Pink sleeveless chiffon blouse and check shirt by Martine Sitbon; diamond tiara, £2.5 million, by Real Jewelry By Gianni Versace; red sash stylist’s own.
  • White chiffon shirt, black and white dogtooth trousers and beaded necklace by Christian Dior Haute Couture.
  • White cotton shirt by Polo Sport; red check split skirt by Eric Bergere; pearl necklace by Dary’s.
  • Dress and shoes by Helmut Lang; feather headdress by Philip Treacy for W< crocodile bag from Parisian flea market.
  • Red shirt by Equipment; multicolored scarf by Yves Saint Laurent; riding hat by WH Gidden.

Also from 1997
"Chic" Visionaire #22
"Esprit Tribu" Jalouse No. 4
"The Butcher" The Face
"Naughty Parisian Maid" The Face

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The Face editorial images © 1997 The Face. All Rights Reserved.