Julia Restoin-Roitfeld In 1991

In September 1991, Carine Roitfeld styled her daughter, Julia, for a photograph that accompanied an article in French Glamour about Equipment, the label created by Carine's partner, Christian "Sisley" Restoin. Julia is pictured in the arms of model Claudia Huidobro and both wear the simple and elegant silk shirts for which Equipment is renowned. Carine is even credited as the photographer of the image of Julia, making the article a true family affair. I have translated the text from French to English. One bizarre note: the article does not include their surnames, neither "Roitfeld" nor "Restoin" is mentioned...

Equipment : la chemise en soi

Nouvelle boutique et une ligne enfants pour la chemise déjà mythique, pièce basique d'Equipment et de l'équipement de la femme (et de l'homme) moderne.

La chemise en soie lavée Equipment est ce qu'il est convenu d'appeler sur le marché mode un best-seller. Sisley, le créateur et le fondateur de la marque, introduit, le premier en France, il y a trois ans, cette soie d'un genre nouveau venue de Hong-Kong, née d'un procédé de lavage et d'usure en machine au sable : le ‹‹sand and wash››. 250 000 chemises se sont vendues par an, tous styles (ils sont peu) confondus. Car, précisément, le style de Sisley, c'est, surtout, de ne pas se disperser dans le stylisme. Parti d'une chemise de base en 1977 — une reprise d'une chemise de fripe américaine qu'il trouve parfaite — il fabrique et redéfinit la chemise idéale dans l'ampleur. Ni trop longue ni trop courte, basique dans la coupe, chic dans le détail, boutons nacre premier choix, boutonnière, double boutonnage pour le réglage du poignet, pied de col, piqûre anglaise. L'idée de Sisley est de suivre les courants collections tout en discrétion : on conserve le fond, la forme, qui est le point de repère d'Equipment, on crée un point de ralliement (boutique rue Etienne-Marcel en 1986, quelques relais phares à Londres, chez Joseph, et Bloomingdale's à New York, agrémentés de quelques franchises bien choisies). Le principe inhérent d'Equipment : remettre dans les mentalités la chemise quasi unique et unisexe, mais démultipliée en 25 couleurs, renouvelées chaque saison (autant pour les imprimés), maintenue à un prix fixe (990 F).

La soie lavée ayant terrassé quasiment la popeline et le coton, elle est appliquée au tee-shirt (manches courtes, manches longues) en jersey de soie, qui en devient fluide et moulant à la fois.

Dernière trouvaille et nouveau cheval de bataille d'Equipment : dans les archives des soyeux de Hong-Kong et de la province de Canton, Sisley trouve la faille, une soie à liséré plus le piqué de soie à l'aspect coton Lacoste. Partant du principe que ‹‹tout ce qui est en coton peut se faire en soie››, et que tout  ce qui se fait en grand peut se faire en petit (en pensant à ses enfants Julia et Vladimir), il lance pour la rentrée la chemise de 4 à 12 ans (350 F en coton, 550 F en soie). Il ouvre aussi une boutique Rive Gauche, au 203 du boulevard Saint-Germain. Même architecture (par David Chipperfield) et mêmes chemises, en 25 nouvelle couleurs. De quoi se pousser du col, non ?

Légende: Sisley, l'artisan d'Equipment, et Julia, sa fille, en chemise de soie lavée écrue format enfants, dans les bras de Claudia Huidobro.

Equipment: the shirt itself

New online shop and a children's shirt already legendary, the basic piece of Equipment and the equipment of the modern woman (and man).

The washed silk shirt by Equipment is the so-called bestseller in the fashion market. Sisley, the creator and founder of the brand, introduced it, the first in France, three years ago, this new kind of silk from Hong Kong, born of a process of washing and sanding by machine: the "sand and wash." 250,000 shirts are sold per year, all styles (they are few) combined. For, precisely, the style of Sisley is, above all, do not disperse with the styling. Starting from a basic shirt in 1977 — a reprisal of an old American shirt which he finds perfect — he manufactures and redefines the ideal shirt in his size. Neither too long nor too short, basic in cut, chic in detail, prime mother of pearl buttons, buttonholes, double buttons for adjusting the cuffs, the base of the collar, English stitching. The idea of Sisley is to follow the current collections with discretion: it retains the substance, the shape, which is the benchmark of Equipment, it establishes a focal point (a shop on rue Etienne-Marcel in 1986, a few relay flagships in London, with Joseph, and Bloomingdale's in New York, embellished with a few well chosen franchises). The inherent principle of Equipment: give the shirt an attitude which is virtually unique and unisexual, but multiplied by 25 colors, renewed each season (as much for the printed matter), kept at a fixed price (990 F). 

The washed silk nearly overwhelms the poplin and the cotton, it is applied to the t-shirt (short sleeve, long sleeve) in silk jersey, which becomes fluid and tight at the same time.

The latest discovery and new workhorse of Equipment: in the archives of silk of Hong Kong and of the province of Canton, Sisley found a vulnerability, a silk piping sharper than silk with the aspect of Lacoste cotton. With the premise that "everything that is done in cotton can be done in silk," and that everything that is made large can be made small (thinking of his children Julia and Vladimir), he launched for the reentry the shirt for four- to twelve-year-olds (350 F in cotton, 550 F in silk). He also opened a Left Bank boutique, at 203 boulevard Saint-Germain. The same architecture (by David Chipperfield) and the same shirts, in 25 new colors. Why not stick your neck out, right?

Caption: Sisley, the architect of Equipment, and Julia, his daughter, in an ecru washed silk shirt sized for children, in the arms of Claudia Huidobro.

French Glamour September 1991 with Julia Restoin-Roitfeld  © 1991 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld For Tom Ford

Tom Ford advertising images © 2012 Tom Ford. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld For Miss Dior

The house of Dior has released the first of their new advertising images as styled by Carine Roitfeld starring Mila Kunis in her second campaign for the company. The glamorous black-and-white ads promote the Miss Dior Autumn 2012 handbag collection and were photographed by Mario Sorrenti in Los Angeles at the locations of his choice. With her chic black ensemble, her bouffant hair, and her Miss Dior bag at her side, Kunis definitely has the aura of a Hollywood starlet circa 1950s with a hint of the eternally chic Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis for good measure. The attentive throng of paparazzi adds to the ambience of the images.

Kunis had this to say about her decision to front the campaign: "I've always been tentative about the idea, but this was an easy decision. Why not be a part of a fashion house that I look up to? The truth about Dior is that it makes you feel special and I would never want to be a part of a brand that didn't make me feel good... I'm honestly just learning about fashion... In my daily life, I don't wear the most feminine pieces. But I love to feel feminine when I'm on the red carpet. I find that Dior is an incredibly grounded house. I always thought what Dior does is so sophisticated, feminine and beautiful... They made me feel incredibly comfortable. I can't say it was the hardest thing to do." Dior plans to release more material from the campaign next week including a short film and behind-the-scenes footage.

Miss Dior advertising campaign images © 2012 Christian Dior. All Rights Reserved.

The Evening Dresses Of Carine Roitfeld

The Evening Dresses Of Carine Roitfeld
By Dara Block

For some women, finding that perfect evening dress can be quite a challenge, but for Carine Roitfeld that has never been an issue. It is always interesting to watch and observe her audacious sense of style! Whether day casual or fancy at night, there truly is so much to be learned from her. Throughout the years, I have frequently noticed that Carine Roitfeld's trademark look has always been about high-heels, high-waisted jackets, close-fitting skirts, and of course black stockings. She definitely has created her own personal style, which is key to looking sleek and stylish when dressing up. With all that said, I thought it would be exciting to look back at some of Carine's greatest and most memorable red carpet evening looks. And also just for fun, I thought it would be appropriate to share some of my own evening gown illustrations inspired by Carine Roitfeld herself!

Let's start with this stunning black Givenchy gown by Riccardo Tisci that she recently wore to the 2012 amfAR Cinema Against AIDS event in May. I so love how form-fitted this black gown is to her figure. She looks completely elegant, yet cutting-edge, too and I love the added extra element of those long diamond earrings. They are the perfect complement to this standout black dress. This is an excellent example of how diamond jewelry should be worn.... as an accessory not an excessory!

Carine Roitfeld also shined in May of this year at the Met Gala in another amazing Givenchy Haute Couture black ensemble. I so love the looseness of this jacket-dress paired with those heels and how she reveals just the right amount of leg. She definitely exudes sensuality in this outfit, but still remains completely elegant and chic.

Back in 2011, Carine Roitfeld showed up at the Victoria's Secret Fashion show in this black velvet cocktail dress with cropped blazer. I feel like this is a signature Carine Roitfeld look that I never get tired of looking at. The cut and fit of this dress is quite impeccable and I love how confident and comfortable she looks in this ensemble. She proves that it is not just about the clothes, but about the attitude as well!

Carine Roitfeld also dazzled in this sheer feathered embroidered Givenchy couture evening gown at the amfAR Fashion Week 2011 kick off party. As much as I love seeing Carine Roitfeld in a dramatic black gown, I also love it when she brightens her look with a pale tone. I think she looks quite angelic in this frock. I so loved how this Givenchy looked on the runway and the way Carine Roitfeld interpreted it into her own sense of style... she certainly has a brilliant way of wearing couture.

In addition, Carine Roitfeld looked stunning in this long black evening gown with provocative sheer inserts for the Gucci Rue Royale re-opening party in 2011 during the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week! She definitely knows how to spice up a black dress. The sheer inserts certainly leave more to the imagination and I so admire how she can always remain sexy yet demure at the same time.

Speaking of sex appeal, who could forget Carine Roitfeld back in 2010 when she arrived to the Ralph Lauren dinner to celebrate the opening of his store in Paris? ...In case you need to be refreshed, she totally turned heads in this lovely lace overlay bodysuit, with matching black cape and laced up boots! Whether you love or hate this look, you have to respect Carine Roitfeld for taking such a fashion risk with this risqué ensemble. Personally, I think she looks quite edgy and I always love it when she combines glamour with a little goth-edge. This was such an unforgettable look!

Going back to May of 2010, Carine Roitfeld "wowed" everyone in this floor length black evening gown with leopard bodice print at the amfAR Cinema Against AIDS benefit. I have always admired the way Carine could easily incorporate leopard and make it look so chic. She also amazed everyone back in 2009, in yet another leopard ensemble at the Dolce & Gabbana party. I so love the way she worked that one shoulder leopard print by D&G! I see so many women who attempt to wear leopard and they always make it look trashy by wearing it from head to toe. Carine Roitfeld knows that with leopard it is all about balance and mixing it with something solid like a black tone... these two looks prove that! There really is much to be learned from observing these pics on how to properly wear leopard.... Brava!

One of my all time favorite Carine Roitfeld gowns has to be this white asymmetrical Emilio Pucci dress that she wore in 2009 to the amfAR gala. I just love the overall Grecian quality and all that exquisite draping. Plus, those open toed black Alaïa heels are the perfect finishing touch... She certainly looks like a goddess! What I admire most about this dress is that you would actually never think that it is a Pucci creation, but I love how Carine Roitfeld can always manage to surprise us with her daring yet sophisticated dress choices!

If there is one Carine Roitfeld evening look that I am always continually inspired by it would have to be this asymmetrical black dress with matching blazer, stockings, and heels that she wore to an art event sponsored by Chanel in 2008. What I admire about this look is that it is a great example of personal style. It doesn't look as if she was dressed by a fashion label, but by herself... the way a true fashionista dresses! She looks glamorous, dark and edgy, with that blazer over her shoulders. Plus, I love that extra added punk element with that chain necklace... a very noir, mysterious, but yet sophisticated look!

Finally, I end my list with this Dolce & Gabbana dress that Carine Roitfeld wore back in 2007 during the Cannes Film Festival. I love how the dress is both sheer and corseted, but also embellished with design... a signature Dolce & Gabbana look. Personally, what I appreciate most about this frock is how Carine Roitfeld chose to pair it with red heels. Carine knows that accents are key to looking sharp. Sometimes, it is the right accessory like a shoe, a belt, or a piece of jewelry that is needed to make a look complete! This Dolce & Gabbana dress is really about personal style... which is what Carine Roitfeld does best!

With all that style analysis, I thought it would be appropriate to share some of my illustrations very much inspired by her amazing evening style... let's take a look!

I know Carine Roitfeld loves a long dramatic skirt so I thought this would look quite chic on her with a form-fitted jacket. She could definitely add a little goth-glamour to it with a pair of gloves... I would so love too see her at an event with an ensemble like this... very high-fashion, yet classic, as well!

In keeping with the long and dramatic theme, I thought this sleek black dress with open back would look quite suiting on her. I know Carine Roitfeld occasionally likes to add accessories so I thought maybe she could add a flowy scarf to the dress to make it a little more nonchalant and cutting edge... almost like how she styled that stunning black dress she wore to the Gucci party in 2011.

As we all know, Carine Roitfeld loves to wear black stockings so I thought this black dress with pouf sleeves would look amazing on her. Yes, it is very covered up, but I like how dramatic and sexy it is with those black tights and super high-heels... I could certainly see Carine Roitfeld sporting this look at an event.

Next, I thought this sleek and form-fitting black dress would look so striking on her. I so love how proportioned it is on the waist and how it is balanced with those pouf sleeves. This dress is elegant, sharp, and very body-conscious... it takes a lot of confidence to wear something like this, but Carine Roitfeld could easily do it. I would so love to see her wear this dress during September Fashion Week.

My next sketch is very much inspired by her Emilio Pucci one shoulder dress that she wore back in 2009 at Cannes. I am really into drapery, especially when it is done in a classic manner and I thought this asymmetrical black gown would look amazing on her. I would so love to see her wear this next year to the amfAR Gala in Cannes!

I also thought this asymmetrical blue dress would look appropriate on her. Occasionally, Carine Roitfeld likes to astound us with something unconventional so I thought this bright blue color would look great on her. I was also thinking instead of wearing high heels she should go for some super high black boots! Perhaps she should also sport a pair of short-black gloves for a more fashion-forward feeling... I like a little audacious glamour and I think this look is a perfect example of that!

I always like the idea of mixing sporty with sexy so I thought this puffy vest look with belt and knee length skirt would look quite chic on her. I know Carine Roitfeld loves the idea of sporty-chic so I tried to blend those two concepts together. The outfit was very much inspired by her brilliantly styled Vogue Paris November 2004 issue. I thought for a more glamourous feeling I would add some full-length gloves and a pair of stilettos... just to balance the look. I could definitely see her wearing this type of outfit during Fashion Week.

My last sketch is a little bit inspired by her Givenchy look she wore this May to the Met Gala. I know Carine Roitfeld loves a sleek and nicely fitted blazer so I thought this could work on her figure. I was also thinking a long dramatic skirt would make for an interesting balance. Perhaps to next year's Met Gala she could wear a look like this on the red carpet.

In closing, as we can all see, Carine Roitfeld's evening style is quite on point. Her signature sexy goth-look is distinct, steady, but yet completely all her own. She is certainly not someone pieced together by a designer or a magazine... making her a total icon of night-time glamour. It is so interesting how she consistently remains sleek, innovative, but still classic in her dress choices. Personally, if I ever find myself confused about what to wear in the evening I always look to Carine Roitfeld for inspiration. No matter what kind of style you have there certainly is something to be learned from studying her way of dressing. I don't know about you, but I can't wait to see what evening gowns she will be wearing in the future. Hope you took some style notes, I know I did!

Fashion illustrations © 2012 Dara Block. Carine Roitfeld photographs courtesy of Fashion Spot. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld At Valentino

Carine Roitfeld photographs courtesy of zimbio.com