Mode/Sport: Vogue Paris November 2004
By Dara Block
I don't know about you, but I am still in denial that Carine Roitfeld has even left Vogue Paris. For some odd reason, every month, when I skim through the pages of Vogue Paris magazine I still look for one of Carine Roitfeld's amazingly chic, yet highly personal, editor's notes. Yes, I know she is now on to new and other interesting projects like CR Fashion Book, but I like to think that she is still subconsciously contributing to the magazine. Recently, I started to think about some of her most memorable and iconic issues of Vogue Paris. Naturally, there are so many to discuss, but if there was one that has left a huge impact on my personal style it would have to be the November 2004 issue dedicated to sportswear. What I appreciate so much about this particular issue was the way in which Carine Roitfeld was able to take such glamorous looks and transform them into so many athletic inspired fashion spreads. She totally brought new meaning to the term "sporty-chic." So, with all that in mind, I thought it would be appropriate to take a glimpse inside this unforgettable and groundbreaking issue!
First of all, let's just take a moment to examine this gorgeous cover. The striking image was photographed by Mario Testino and featured Kate Moss looking extra sporty-chic in a Nike sports bra and shorts mixed in with a green Gucci fur coat for some added glamour. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld styled this cover and I so love how she placed that Gucci fur over her Nike ensemble… very high fashion, but yet still very athletic-looking. Only Carine Roitfeld could style this look together so cool and nonchalantly!
Carine Roitfeld also dedicates a page in the issue to photographer Mario Testino. After all, he helped Carine out with many of the stunning athletic inspired editorials in this issue. It’s quite obvious that Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld work so well together and I love how beautifully he executed her sportswear vision in this issue. I also think it’s quite cool how she featured a photo of Mario Testino, himself, playing tennis… if you look closely you can see him in action on the court. Those impromptu photos go so perfectly with the whole sportswear theme.
Next up is Carine Roitfeld's iconic editor's note. In it, she talks about how inspired she was by Olympic athletes, their bodies, and how they move within space. She also shared how delighted she was to have Mario Testino take part in this issue especially because he was able to turn all her athletic ideas into a reality. I so love the montage of sporty inspired images she has put together. Nobody can put together and style an editor's note quite like Carine Roitfeld.
Following the editor's note comes “Ski Fantaisies” which is a beautiful montage of ski-wear mixed in with the season's hottest winter looks. Since this issue came out in November of 2004, the timing was perfect to showcase some winter-chic inspired looks with a Carine Roitfeld sensibility. I so love how she reminisced back to some retro ski-looks, but also mixed it up with Polaroid images of the current season's winter looks by Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, and The Gap to display how the winter ski look can be both glamorous but yet, very easy to wear, as well!
After “Ski Fantaisies” comes “Agenda,” in which Vogue Paris takes an inside look at designer Stella McCartney's collaboration with the Adidas label. I so appreciate how the magazine showcases some sporty looks from Stella McCartney's Fall/Winter 2004 collection and relates it to her line for Adidas. There are definitely some sporty-chic connections and its quite amazing to see how sportswear has transformed into such a high-fashion concept… brilliantly conveyed!
Next comes “Flashback” which features a photograph of supermodel Veruschka taken in 1968, by Franco Rubartelli. It’s obvious what a great inspiration this winter ski photo was to Carine Roitfeld and to the Vogue Paris team for this issue. What is not to love about this image… the styling is impeccable with that turtleneck and all those extra added winter accessories. This is truly the Vogue Paris way of going skiing in 1968 and for today, as well!
Following the “Flashback” photograph comes “Mode/Sport” an astounding collaboration between Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld showcasing how sportswear and athletic style has changed the way both men and women dress in their everyday lives. The concept is quite simple, but yet very forward-thinking in terms of style!
First comes “Hors-Piste”in which Carine Roitfeld takes various winter ski looks and translates them for the modern-day woman. One of my favorite looks featured in the editorial was this sleeping bag coat by Maison Martin Margiela. I love how cool, comfortable, and cutting edge this model looks in her coat. It is as if she just got out of bed and perhaps even wore her bed spread and just decided to go skiing. On a side note, H&M is now selling a new version of the very same Margiela sleeping bag coat. I actually just purchased it and I must say I use this Mario Testino image as my total style inspiration.
There are also some extra amazing photos in this ski editorial featuring stylish ski masks and even some other sleeping bag coat looks from designer Norma Kamali, as well.
Next comes “Classe de Neige,” which takes an in-depth look at the sporty-chic ski-look and how it has influenced ready to wear winter style throughout the years. I so love the montage of paparazzi images. The photos range from Jackie O. and Renee Zellweger to Princess Diana… showing off their best winter ski attire! With all these pics you clearly can see how ski style has inspired many fashion designers and stylists.
Following “Classe de Neige” comes “Figures Libres,” which features supermodel Kate Moss in some of the season's hottest sporty looks. This is my favorite editorial in the entire issue because all the looks featured are so effortless and easy to copy. In addition, Carine Roitfeld beautifully depicts how sporty fashion can be both stylish, but also very affordable, as well. By far, this is one of the most relatable layouts. I constantly use these images as inspiration when I go to the gym to work out!
Next comes “Fatale do Brazil” which showcases more sporty-chic looks from designers like Calvin Klein and John Galliano to the more affordable Nike label. I so love all the body motions captured in these images. It’s got a very stylish cardio-barre look, mixed in with a noir sensibility. This is certainly the way the Vogue Paris woman likes to works out!
After comes “GoldGirl.”This is a stunning editorial featuring many gold inspired looks on supermodel Hana Soukupova. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld had many inspirations for this editorial. Her influences range from Marilyn Monroe, The Bee Gees, David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust, to even the hip-hop style of Run-DMC. I think if you study the style in this layout you can totally see all that combined. Hana Soukupova looks completely elegant, but yet still rock n' roll with a touch of hip-hop. Only Carine Roitfeld could manage to blend all these elements together so elegantly!
The next brilliant editorial is entitled “Jeux Interdits” which features interesting ingenues like Joanna Preiss and Elettra Rossellini in 2004's hottest athletic-inspired ensembles. Personally, I love seeing Elettra Rossellini as David Bowie in Christian Dior. She looks very sporty-chic with a total John Galliano edge.
The last layout features model and actress Elizabeth Hurley in various black dresses by designers like Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. What I love most about these images is that Elizabeth Hurley is looking so glamorous and chic while she is working out. Only Carine Roitfeld would envision something like this. I so appreciate the humor of this editorial. Carine Roitfeld brilliantly conveys with this layout how one should always look their best even when working out on a treadmill.
As we can see, Carine Roitfeld has completely transformed the idea of sportswear with this November 2004 issue. I so appreciate all the athletic themed looks featured… Mario Testino captured Carine Roitfeld's vision so perfectly. I must admit that whenever I look through certain magazines and see their depictions of sportswear I find myself uninspired and bored, but with this particular issue you can truly see sporty individuality at its finest… so many fashion possibilities to choose from, making it a total Vogue Paris classic. Carine Roitfeld clearly shows how both men and women can be both casual-cool in their sportswear, but yet completely sophisticated at the same time.. something I don't think that many people realize can go together so easily.
Brava to Carine Roitfeld for showing Americans and the rest of the world how sporty-chic is properly done. Indeed, this is one of her most memorable issues! On that note, I think it’s time to put on my Nike bodysuit and fur coat and head to the gym, see you there!
Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.