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Vogue Paris April 2001: Bande A Part

Vogue Paris April 2001: Bande A Part
By Jessica Eritou

Shot by Patrick Ibanez and modeled by Tasha Tilberg, “Bande A Part” explores what it means to balance an alternative aesthetic with an androgynous twist. Styled by Antje Winter, each shot is in simplified black-and-white which produces even more of a hard edge to the editorial. We are shown simple cuts and fabrics, but it enforces the edge of the materials and textures on Tilberg.

Despite this editorial being more than 12 years old, the looks presented are similar to those seen in department stores today. It seems as though this work is foreshadowing Emmanuelle Alt's succession as editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris after the departure of Carine Rotfield. The silhouettes and effortlessness very much resemble Alt's own style and appeal.

The first image conveys a strong introduction to the editorial since it shows Tilberg from a long shot. The skinny legged denim paired with a cropped leather piece and a pair of heels could be worn in today's time while at the same time there is still a retro edge to the work. Perhaps due to the vintage car as prop, or Tilberg's hair, this shot works brilliantly, as though she is a 1950s greaser.

Next is a close-up shot focusing on Tilberg's patent top while covered in metal chains. This is the only shot that stands out from the others, since it does not accompany the rest of the editorial. There is almost a futuristic vibe rather than that of an androgynous rebel.

The third shot focuses on the male-female contrast with a menswear inspired tuxedo jacket paired with an ultra-feminine blouse and the denim we saw far too much of in the late 90s. What makes this shot stand out are the popular trends shown, the aesthetic is still very raw and effortless.

Winter then poses Tilberg on an automotive backseat again, in skinny legged denim and another feminine ruffled blouse. The hard-edged lines of the backseat contrast with Tilberg's soft delicate features. What makes this shot great is the integration of all of the elements you would see typically with a male. This is seen in Tilberg's pose and her knife tied to the side of her leg with a handkerchief. Her flats are feminine with retro polka dots.

The next shot is something you would expect to see straight off the runway of Balenciaga. The look is very simple with a blouse and trousers, but it is the execution that makes this look unique. Pairing an off-white blouse underneath a black turtleneck is unexpected yet it works in a complementary manner. The delicately banded trousers are leather, which match the gender neutral bag strapped across Tilberg's chest. Is this an ode to another androgynous message? Did Winter have her wear it specifically in that manner instead of carrying it the typical way on her shoulder? This “Bande A Part” is shown here to illustrate how easily a piece can be turned into something more with just a simple placement.

Winter then creates an athletic-inspired shot, mixing a zipped sweater with leather piping, rich in texture, with a gathered jersey skirt. This shot is more playful than the rest.

Lastly we see Tilberg in a printed dress with a motorcycle jacket much like the current coveted Balmain ones we see in 2013. She's sitting on another automotive seat, but this time she is not facing the camera, posing in a slouchy, rude way. Winter incorporates more feminine details with the use of jewelry and belt details at the waist.

Overall, this editorial is timeless, or perhaps we are just used to the trends seen today in 2013. It could also be more relatable in today's time since it is shot in black-and-white so we cannot see the color palettes used, which could date the work. “Bande A Part” demonstrates the use of masculine and feminine in such a way it makes every piece just right.

More from Vogue Paris April 2001

Vogue Paris April 2001: Berlin
By Dara Block

Vogue Paris April 2001: Tentation Rebelle
By Kellina de Boer

Vogue Paris April 2001 Translation: Initiales B.C.
By Kellina de Boer

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2001 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

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Reader Comments (2)

brava jessica! I agree completely...amazing how current and modern this still looks today. I love an editorial that just gets better with time and this one certainly falls in that category! :)
1 mai 2013 | Unregistered Commenterdara block
thank you, jessica.
antje winter
20 juin 2014 | Unregistered Commenterantje winter

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