The lovely and talented Kamila Brudzynska recently acquired the February 1996 issue of Vogue Paris including an article on Jil Sander to which Carine Roitfeld contributed. Kamila kindly translated the article from French to English for us to enjoy, along with providing the scans of the article. Merci mille fois, Kamila.
Jil Sander: Less Is More
Translation by Kamila Brudzynska
Her spring-summer '96 collection is a model of equilibrium. Jil Sander has the art and the way to develop simply modern fashion.
Three editors selected their favorite Jil Sander designs to develop according to their own style. Carine Roitfeld, freelance stylist and ex-Glamour stylist, chose a man's sweater in dark grey with a white mini skirt and a white coat with red shantung trousers. Designed by Mats Gustafson. Jil Sander says: "It is a square coat, made from a blend of wool and Panama straw — yes, straw hats are also made of this. We can sculpt this material, which I love because it is not fuzzy, because it is straight ahead, and it confers a strong but relaxed attitude. And just a little color with the trousers to shock."
The Private Eroticism of the White Marinière
"When I was younger, even before I started to work in fashion, I observed women and I always have told them they can be more beautiful. I wanted to bring out their beauty, the shape of their head, charm, strength. In the late Sixties, women dressed in a ridiculous way, everything was confused, especially in Germany. I may have been one of the first to try to define a woman of strength. There is always a tension in what I'm doing, tension between femininity and a certain androgyny. No tutus, no little girl, and especially not lady-ish."
Lady-ish? This is a German speaking, the blonde Jil Sander. Her first real fashion show took place seven years ago, in Milan; today, Jil Sander although based in Hamburg, has established herself as the international designer who sets the tone: a sleek and subtle style, which can not discover the secrets and the touch of rare and thoughtful fabrics, or the fitting — 40 jackets cut for every season, each cut in different proportions to the figure of each valued client. Long legs, short legs, long torso, square or small shoulders, young or not, you can find here each individuality. Jil Sander eats breakfast at Relais Plaza, next to her boutique, surrounded by women in clothes from couture tailors whose dogs wears outfits. She appears in sweater, trousers, flat shoes. This is her style, modern, almost muted, but a muted effect with a deep bass that shakes everything without the need for high notes.
"I need to work with quality fabrics, but modern quality, not quality… sweet. Cool wool, the man's fabrics, the man's sweaters, the quality which menswear has but it works as sexy. A feminine attitude, masculine fabrics. The fabric, it is a way of making the voice visible."
Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Vogue editor for 14 years, chose a cashmere turtleneck sweater with the viscose gabardine bermuda shorts, grained leather moccasins by Sergio Rossi, and the marinière with the simple shirt made of canvas cotton blend. All photographed by Michael Thompson and Laurie Bird. Jil Sander says: "I want women to be younger and fresher. The marinière is in cotton pique stretch, with a finish just like paper. It's cut to be close but it's stretch, so it moves with the body. It feels tight as a corset, it pinches but without adding curves."
Materials and Proportions
Franceline Orat, editor-in-chief of accessories and jewelry in Vogue for 18 years, selected the silk shantung pantsuit and the gabardine raincoat tied at the waist, accessorized with jewelry designed by Antoine Rivaud from the 1930s, by Lydia Courteille, and cultured pearls by Angela Pintaldi of the Joyce Gallery. Photographed by Daniel Jouanneau. Jil Sander says: "I like the brilliance of true silk shantung. I designed the pantsuit two years ago in organza, and then in silver fabric, last year in super rayon, now silk attracts me. The coat is in rayon — the kind which I found in Japan: the fabric is twisted which gives it a disturbing touch, toned, resistant but light.
Vogue Paris editorial images © 1996 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.
Carine Roitfeld: Pirelli Calendar 2015
By Bernie Rothschild
The Pirelli Calendar 2015 will be styled by the legendary Carine Roitfeld and photographed by Steven Meisel. It is the first time that the calendar will feature plus-sized models and will include Joan Smalls, Anna Ewers, Adriana Lima, Candice Huffine, Raquel Zimmermann, Gigi Hadid, Isabeli Fontana, Carolyn Murphy, Karen Elson, Natalia Vodianova, Cameron Russell, and Sasha Luss. The 2015 Pirelli theme is "FETISH" which is synonymous with the style of Carine Roitfeld. Her love of bondage fetishism is deeply associated with the way she dresses and reflected in her photo shoot styling. She even themed the 2007 Vogue Paris calendar bondage also featuring Karen Elson as photographed by David Sims which shows her love of eroticism chic.
Carine has been working with Steven Meisel a lot lately (which makes me wonder why they didn't work together during her time at Vogue Paris). It was also Roitfeld and Meisel who were responsible for the first campaign of Tom Ford for YSL Rive Gauche and I assume that it was Carine who conceptualized and styled the controversial Opium campaign featuring the naked Sophie Dahl.
Although it is the first time for Steven Meisel to photograph the prestigious Pirelli Calendar, it is the second time for Carine. She styled the 2001 edition of the calendar featuring the top models of the new millennium as photographed by Mario Testino in Naples, Italy. One thing that is noticeable is every model's silhouette looks very much like Carine Roitfeld's personal style. The high heels, the nudity, the cigarette dangling, the black dresses. Carine is really the queen of erotic and hedonist chic! She seems to be the female reincarnation of Tom Ford with a touch of Helmut Newton. I'm really very excited to see the 2015 Pirelli Calendar which is due in November and, for sure, it will be one of Carine's "greatest hits."
Pirelli Calendar images © 2014 Pirelli. All Rights Reserved.
These boots are made for.. Oooo la la… In her directorial debut, Rock Roll Ride for Stuart Weitzman, Julia Restoin Roitfeld proves to be a natural behind the camera, displaying cool confidence and sexy heat all at once. Julia cast Dylan Penn and Poppy Delevingne in her short film, and the playful and seductive pair model a parade of Stuart Weitzman boots that will haunt you for weeks. To set a sultry tone, la réalisatrice chose a remix of "Ride" by Lana del Rey with the Hamptons as background.
Regarding their collaboration, Stuart Weitzman explained, “When we started the creative process for our film series this season, we wanted to work with a female director whose artistic vision was aligned with our brand aesthetic. Julia’s body of work is impressive, and we knew she would capture the spirit of Stuart Weitzman through a unique vantage point.”
When asked about her initial experience as a director, JRR shared, “As a creative director, I think secretly I always wanted to direct a movie, and when Stuart Weitzman approached me to direct their fourth short film, I immediately said yes because I’m obsessed with shoes… I was so flattered, because James Franco did one of their films right before me so I’m following in the footsteps of real professionals. I was so stressed, because I felt like I needed to be at their level… I had no idea where to start, but I had an amazing production company who guided me, and helped me to show my ideas and helped me make it work. I wanted the girls to look like my fantasy look, and I wanted them to look very sensual, very sexy, very comfortable, very confident without looking vulgar, and that there’s a certain toughness in them, and also a fragility, and a certain sensuality… I like the multiple screen because it really reminds me of the layout of vintage Playboys. I use them as references and I love when it creates a mystery where you see a little bit of that scene mixed with a little bit of that and the close-up on the lips. I just love this whole aesthetic." In addition to finding inspiration for her film in the pages of Playboy, I would suggest that perhaps Julia has taken cues also from Brigitte Bardot in "Harley Davidson" and Franck Durand for Aurelie Bidermann.
For the Stuart Weitzman launch party at Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Julia Restoin Roitfeld appeared in Mugler fresh off the runway with thigh-high boots by Stuart Weitzman, bien sûr. Among the many fabulous guests celebrating the launch were Carine Roitfeld, Daphne Groeneveld, Miranda Kerr, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Daisy Lowe, Cara Delevingne, Hannah Bronfman, Atlanta de Cadenet, Harley Viera-Newton, Leigh Lezark, Mario Sorrenti, David Koma, and Virginie Courtin-Clarins.
Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Rock Roll Ride photographs courtesy of Stuart Weitzman, fashionweekdaily.com, and secondcitystyle.com.
When I saw this photograph of Julia and Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld posted on her Instagram account, I immediately remembered this shot of Carine wearing the same dress by Azzedine Alaïa. Now I have to ask: which Roitfeld wears it better? Please feel free to express your opinion in the comments below… Bonus points if you can identify in which Alaïa collection the dress appeared originally….
Carine Roitfeld and Julia Restoin Roitfeld In Alaïa photos courtesy of instagram.com and thesartorialist.com.