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jeudi
sept.052013

Vogue Paris Translation: Editorial, August 2004

As we glance back to the August 2004 issue of Vogue Paris, here is my translation from French to English of the editorial written by Carine Roitfeld. How I adore her turn of phrase, so like her images, at once charming and provocative.

"Personne n'a à me dire ce que je dois porter", a coutume de dire Madonna. Sans vouloir offenser la "pop queen", en couverture de ce numéro et dont la série de concerts à Paris s'annonce d'emblée comme l'événement de la rentrée, c'est ce que nous avons décidé de faire ce mois-ci : ne pas vous laisser le choix et vous mettre en présence des total looks les plus marquants de l'automne-hiver. Un Vogue spécial mode donc, doublé d'un supplément défilés (ci-dessus, Dior par John Galliano), imaginé non pas comme une "bible de diktats", mais comme un décapsuleur d'envies. Envies de léopard, de noir fluide, d'une silhouette graphique et de voluptueuses audaces, entre modernité et tradition, symptôme d'une saison "Asie-mutée". La vitalité d'un rythme de lignes franches que l'on retrouve dans l'architecture japonaise, chez ses "fabuleux sorciers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamagushi, Tokyo Ito...) dont le travail est un témoignage à l'air libre de la relation essentielle qui existe entre la légèreté et la modernité.

"Nobody has to tell me what to wear," Madonna often says. No offense to the "pop queen" — on the cover of this issue and whose series of concerts in Paris upon being announced were immediately the event of the season — that is exactly what we decided to do this month: give you no choice and put you in the presence of the most striking total looks of the fall-winter styles. A Vogue fashion special therefore, bundled with a supplement to the shows (above, Dior by John Galliano), imagined not as a "Bible of dictates," but as a wish list opener. Cravings for leopard, for fluid black, for a graphic silhouette and for sensuous audacity, between modernity and tradition, a symptom of the "Asia-mutated" season. The vitality of the rhythm of clean lines found in Japanese architecture, with its "fabulous sorcerers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamaguchi, Tokyo Ito...) whose work is a testament in the open air to the essential relationship which exists between lightness and modernity.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

mercredi
sept.042013

CR Fashion Book Issue 3: Hope

The third issue of CR Fashion Book bears the theme I like best thus far — Hope — but the cover gives me very little of it… I infinitely prefer the teaser cover that was shown yesterday to either of the true covers, quelle horreur ! The image of the jeweled mask seen on the teaser is mysterious, alluring, glamorous, and, by virtue of the anonymity of the mask, appealing to every woman. The actual cover images feature Kim Kardashian by Karl Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci and Diogo De Castro Gomes, Saville Dorfman, and Emily Ratajkowski by Bruce Weber. Surely it would be a better joke if it were the other way around… I hardly feel this is collectible, I want that bejeweled masked teaser… Carine Roitfeld, please give us Hope...

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CR Fashion Book Issue 3 cover image © 2013 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved.

mardi
sept.032013

Vogue Paris August 2004: Madonna

Vogue Paris August 2004: Madonna
By Dara Block

It is not very common for Vogue Paris to feature a major celebrity on the cover so when the magazine decided to have Madonna on its August 2004 cover I definitely took notice. Leave it to Vogue Paris to make such a smart and intriguing cover image with one of the world's most renowned entertainers. I love that it is a close-up of Madonna with her hair covering her face, rather than an obvious shot of which, we are always used to seeing of The Material Girl. Plus, I love the way those words are written across the cover... it simply says exclusif Madonna dans les yeux, which beautifully translates as... through Madonna's eyes. So much mystery is conveyed and I appreciate that the words correspond so alluringly to the image. This cover truly has Carine Roitfeld incognito-chic written all over it, so with all that said let's take a detailed look inside this brilliant Madonna and Steven Klein collaboration.

The editorial is an intriguing behind-the-scenes look at Madonna's 2004 Re-Invention Tour. In case you do not remember, the Re-Invention Tour was her sixth concert tour to support her ninth studio album entitled American Life. Madonna was inspired to create the tour after taking part in an art installation called X-STaTIc PRO-Cess, directed by photographer Steven Klein. You can actually see many of the images featured in the April 2003 issue of W Magazine. Madonna is photographed in various reincarnations of her many spiritual practices... including a yogi prophet. Madonna truly takes her yoga practice to such an artistic level in this editorial... do check out these photos if you have never seen this W Magazine layout, very inspiring!

I actually saw her Re-Invention Tour back in 2004 and I loved how the concert was divided into five segments..... French Baroque Marie Antoinette Revival, Military Army, Circus Cabaret, and Acoustic and Scottish Tribal. The costumes were exquisitely designed by Arianne Phillips all based on the idea of re-invention and change. Madonna is well-known for her transformations so to see these looks all assembled together was quite the visual treat!

I think it is important to note that around this time the US was sending troops to Iraq and Afghanistan and Madonna made sure to get out a political message against George W. Bush. I don't think she wanted to anger her fans, but I think she was more about enlightening and educating her fans about revising our political system. It is clear that this concert was not just about performance, but also about making a social and political change.

Personally, one of my favorite parts of the show was the military segment. There was so much substance with noir military style that I cannot forget and still to this day I stand by her American Life album, even though critics hated it. This was just one of the sections of the show and I loved that we got to see all sides of Madonna.

Now, let's get back to the editorial! I think the opening image is quite epic and I love seeing Madonna in double symmetry. It looks like she is wearing a butterfly lace mask and I can't help but take notice of that look that she is giving to the camera. Once again, we see Madonna in full incognito chic mode, which is definitely the way I like seeing her..... mysteriously glam and ready to turn heads!

Next, we see Madonna dancing up a storm. This is what I love about her, she always knows how to put on a show. I appreciate this moment of her in full dance mode with that head set on. Very few woman can get away with a white tank top, a belt, and fishnet stockings, but I think this photo clearly shows why she is The Queen of Pop.

By far, this is my favorite image from the editorial. Again, we see Madonna in double symmetry, but this time there is a kaleidoscope effect added in. I love that relaxed expression on her face and how she almost looks like a fluttering butterfly. This is a very ethereal image and I like how calming it looks. This photo very much represents the spiritual side of Madonna... one of her best phases.

Following the Madonna butterfly image we get to see a rare moment of Madonna backstage with her son, Rocco. Madonna is wearing a Scottish kilt and I remember her wearing this ensemble in the last part of the show. Only Madonna could make a Scottish kilt look so chic and practical... really such amazing styling on this outfit. I also love all those extra bright colors blended in that background. Steven Klein certainly added a sci-fi element to this sentimental moment between Madonna and her son.

Next, we see a noir moment of Madonna singing on-stage with a guitar and all dressed up in a black bespoke Stella McCartney suit. I remember this portion of the show very well. Madonna spoke to the audience about promoting peace and helping others who are less fortunate, especially in countries like Africa. She also sang a version of John Lennon's "Imagine" to promote her thoughts on living in a world of peace. I liked seeing this side of Madonna.... it felt more real, maybe even a bit melancholy, but I applaud her for always speaking her mind about what she feels the world needs more of.

We next see Madonna in full diva pose. I love the way she looks here in that black bodysuit and the way her dancers are looking up at her. She is by the far the ultimate pop diva and she truly shows that in this photo. When I look at this image I automatically think strike a pose, vogue.... no wonder why she made this cover!

The final image of Madonna is a close up shot of her in full concentration mode during the middle of her concert tour. I love all the dynamic colors that Steven Klein added to this image and it really shows just how innovative Madonna really is. She manages to do it all... performer, artist, mother, thinker, and humanitarian. There is no stop to Madonna and as the years go on I find her more interesting. I love the way Vogue Paris chose to showcase her tour and all the thought and imagination that Madonna and her creative team put into this concert. Steven Klein also added an edgy and seductive mix to this editorial with his sharp eye. I was really happy that I got to see this show in real life and I think this particular issue of Vogue Paris very much enhances the concert experience.

While normally I don't like seeing celebrities on the cover of Vogue Paris I think we can make an exception for Madonna. It's quite lovely to see a Carine Roitfeld version of Madonna on the cover as well as a unique behind-the-scenes look of her Re-Invention Tour. Madonna will always be so far ahead of the game in terms of fashion and style, so it is no surprise why she made the cover of this unforgettable issue. Brava, CR for honoring Madonna in that Vogue Paris way we all know and love!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

mardi
sept.032013

CR Fashion Book Issue 3: The Mask

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CR Fashion Book Issue 3 cover image © 2013 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août242013

CR Fashion Book: Totally Head To Toe

Carine Roitfeld is unveiling her third issue of CR Fashion Book ever so slowly… our most recent peek is the short film featured on her web site, Totally Head to Toe, by Jordan Backhus as shot by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert. Set to the tune of Alison Valentine's “Peanut Butter,” Totally Head to Toe highlights the cast of models that will grace the pages of the Fall/Winter issue of CR Fashion Book.

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld enters the frame at 1:52, barely recognizable with her short hair, her eyes ringed in shimmering teal green and her lips coated with a thick brick red. Her Prada outfit is divine, the teal green leather suits her perfectly. Julia is credited as art director of the short film as well according to models.com. I'd love to know, what do you think of this look for Julia?

Totally Head to Toe also stars Lily Donaldson, Xiao Wen Ju, Karolina Kurkova, Jessica Hart, Irina Shayk, Nadja Bender, Sasha Luss, Lindsey Wixson, Lakshmi Menon, Soo Joo Park, Ashleigh Good, Candice Swanepoel, Stef Van Der Laan, and Anna Ewers. It looks to be another fascinating issue of CR Fashion Book for sure, I am so looking forward to more…

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Julia Restoin-Roitfeld photographs © 2013 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved.