Carine Roitfeld: Le Pin-Up Style

Today’s treat is a glamorous editorial by Carine Roitfeld from 1991, “Le Pin-up Style” which appeared in the January issue of ELLE France that year. Inspired by the work of legendary pin-up artist Alberto Vargas, Carine arranged models Yasmeen Ghauri, Estelle Lefébure, Angie Everhart, and Beri Smither in classic pin-up poses as Mario Testino captured the fantasy on film. I adore the film noir influence, the old-fashioned telephone makes a clever prop and the winged eyeliner with red hot lips and nails is perfection.

Also from 1991
"Le jean libertin" Elle France

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Carine Roitfeld for ELLE France © 1991 Condé Nast and courtesy of kelles via Fashion Spot.

Carine Roitfeld: Mosaiques Orientales

In the editorial "Mosaïques Orientales,” Carine Roitfeld teamed with supermodel Helena Christensen and photographer Friedemann Hauss for the June 1990 issue of ELLE France and it looks a lot like The Night Porter filmed against the backdrop of the cavern of Ali Baba. I love the names that Carine imagined for each of the photos: “La préféré du sultan”... “Shéhérazade 90”... “ Divine”... “Les motifs font impression”... Helena Christensen is radiant amongst a mélange of jewelry and treasured tile as fashion and art blend to form a memorable mosaic against the blue sky.

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Carine Roitfeld for ELLE France © 1990 Condé Nast and courtesy of automne-roi20.livejournal.com via Fashion Spot.

Relating To Carine Roitfeld

I am happy to introduce another winning essay from our The Little Black Jacket contest — “Relating To Carine Roitfeld” by Jessica Eritou. She is truly inspired by Carine Roitfeld: she finds the motivation to pursue dreams that she once thought unattainable by emulating Carine's kinder and gentler approach to fashion. Many thanks, Jessica, for sharing your passion!

Relating To Carine Roitfeld
By Jessica Eritou

I find fashion intimidating. It is intimidating from the notion of if you have taste or if you do not — you are born with or without it. Carine Roitfeld helped me ease into the fashion world, making it not such a scary place after all.

When I was much younger, I would look up to older girls in awe of what they would wear and try to emulate it similarly with the hand-me-downs sent from my cousins. Usually they were elasticized denim leggings or crewneck sweaters. I dreamed of the day my Nike tracksuits would be as cool as the girls in the upper grades wearing Club Monaco sweatshirts.

Now I do merchandising at one of Canada's higher end retailers while I am working on my degree to later work in the industry. But at the beginning of this, I thought this was as far as I could get and I would never dream of meeting anyone who is anyone.

Being from Canada, fashion was never considered important or emulated yet I had the urge to be a part of it. Thankfully I could escape with Fashion Television in the afternoons and watch Jeanne Beker go backstage at Gucci to see Tom, or congratulate John at Dior (which I could never relate to), or thank Marc (back in his Coke bottle glasses days) for a great collection. From then on, I knew I wanted to be a part of the fashion world, but it seemed so exclusive and inaccessible. Everything looked to be extravagant and deemed “cold” like Anna Wintour's alleged personality.

Before I could never relate to the cold glares coming from the first row at fashion shows. Fashion to me is not something that you should hide with your emotions. It is an outlet. It is freedom to show your thoughts, ideas, and imagination. I think the giddiest I have been was when I saw Carine at the latest Dior show (being a fan of Raf since I was 16 or so and he was at Jil Sander).

It was not until I discovered Carine Roitfeld that I felt I could be part of the fashion world. Carine's effortless and refined style was relatable to me. I could connect with someone with such a prestigious career who does not look like the catwalks of Galliano-era Dior, or McQueen at McQueen. Her maximal minimalist style was what I found so endearing in the first place. Here is her sweet, genuine, charming, and gracious personality which is still chic and can still do a great job styling and being an editor at Vogue (at the time). In her shoots or her campaigns, I can always connect with her ideas, her impressions, and her overall aesthetic which keeps me motivated to become even better at my current job in merchandising which funds all of my schooling. Because of Carine, I continue my path to apply to graduate studies in fashion in hopes of styling and journalism.

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Carine Roitfeld photograph courtesy of Fashion Spot.

Review: The Little Black Jacket

Extra special thanks to Sarra Salib, the winner of our The Little Black Jacket contest, for her review of the book which appears below. If you have not had a chance to see this book in person yet, I definitely recommend you do so, the stark layout and the quality materials support the elegant images perfectly.

Review: The Little Black Jacket
By Sarra Salib

It would be an understatement to claim that a Carine Roitfeld and Karl Lagerfeld collaboration is legendary. Revamping Coco Chanel’s classic design is a challenging task; however, this explosive combination of creative minds had the ability to transform the jacket from its simple yet elegant reality to the most fanciful of fantasies. The result is images that are unabashedly clean and stark, dark and romantic.

Perhaps my favorite element of The Little Black Jacket is the unrestraint of each individual’s personality. From Vladimir’s rather stoic and elusive expression to Akuol De Mabior’s African heritage, each person’s individuality remains intact to the very last image. With Carine’s brilliant styling and Karl’s dramatic photography, the jacket never overpowers the individual’s spirit, but rather becomes a means to illuminate it. This crucial element takes a tongue-in-cheek turn when the Anna Wintour image hits. The signature bob, the jacket propped on the shoulders just so, the austere pose. Description is still provided just in case someone is at a loss as to who this character might be.

The Little Black Jacket’s milky way of model repertoire runs the gamut: actors, models, designers, adults, children, musicians, talk show hosts, men and women alike. Carine and Karl don’t discriminate. They prove that one garment can pass the test of versatility and have the ability to be dressed up or down. They also throw convention out the door. The jacket doesn’t have to be worn just as a jacket. It can be worn as a skirt, as a headpiece, or simply wrapped around your top if you are willing to be daring. Individuality and Freedom. What else could anyone want?

The Little Black Jacket is a classic and is undoubtedly leaving an indelible mark in the fashion world. Its 113 towering images maintain a duplicity of complexity and simplicity that brings modernity to an item that has been around for ages. Bravo Carine and Karl.

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The Little Black Jacket book images © 2012 Chanel. All Rights Reserved.

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld In Viva! Moda

As mentioned previously, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld appears on the cover of Viva! Moda for their winter issue and she grants a charming interview as well. I am pleased to present the interview with Julia now in English for your enjoyment. The original interview was conducted by Sylwia Nasiadko. Special thanks to Kamila Brudzyńska, Sara Marcysiak, and Aleksandra Boćkowska for their kind assistance in preparing this translation from Polish to English.

Viva! Moda: Have you worked with Victor Demarchelier before?
Julia Restoin Roitfeld: I haven’t had a chance to work with him so far, although we met a couple of times. I’m really glad we got to work together this time. But his father, Patrick Demarchelier took photos of me when I was pregnant, it was a gift. I can’t even begin to describe how much it means to me — having pictures of the happiest time in my life taken by such an amazing photographer.

V!M: Both Victor and you have been raised by famous parents. Does it make life easier or it’s more of a challenge?
JRR: I think it’s both. As for me, being my mother’s daughter certainly helped. I’m not going to pretend — if it weren’t for my mother, I probably wouldn’t have an opportunity to meet so many amazing people, to get internships where I got them, I don’t know if Tom Ford would hire me. I think it’s all about the attitude — you can either actually use what you’ve got and by working hard prove what you’re worth or keep going to parties and don’t do much. Both Victor and I chose the first option.

V!M: Why so many different fields of interest?
JRR: I’ve always been interested in art in all of its aspects. I sort of grew up in the catwalk, so the interest in fashion came naturally. At one point I became interested in graphic design and magazine layout, which brought me to photography. As for modeling, it kind of happened by chance — Tom Ford asked me six years ago to be his newest fragrance face. I was twenty six at the time, so really much more than models when they start their careers. Not to mention that I really didn’t have the typical model’s silhouette.

V!M: You just designed a lingerie line.
JRR: Well, for a while I’ve been thinking about what I could design. I decided it would be lingerie, because I love it and buy tons of it, really. I contacted people from Kiki de Montparnasse, because that’s my favorite brand and they said okay. Partially it was a project that was my project all long. I designed the collection’s pieces, found a photographer and a stylist that understood my vision. It was a wonderful feeling.

V!M: Have you always known you wanted to do so many things at the same time?
JRR: No. It took me a while to figure out what I wanted do to with my life. After graduation I got an internship at Baron & Baron, a company creating images for luxury brands. And that was like a revelation to me! Fabien Baron showed me it was possible to do many different things at the same time — he’s an art director in his company, but he’s also a great photographer, designs it all: from sunglasses, toys, to furniture. I remember thinking: Oh my God, what a relief, I don’t have to decide! Life is really too short to be making choices. Than I met more people who can do plenty of things and they do all of those things well. Tom Ford or Karl Lagerfeld for example.

V!M: You’re a mother not long ago. Did motherhood change your treatment of work?
JRR: Motherhood is as hard as it is beautiful. For the first couple of months I didn’t hire a nanny. I would do everything by myself. My boyfriend (model Robert Konjic) helped me with everything. Motherhood changes your attitude towards work. You work more efficiently, because you just have less time for it.

V!M: Is there anything else you’d like to try?
JRR: Acting, maybe. I used to take acting classes and sometimes I think it would be fun to see if I’m any good in it. I don’t think I’d ever just go to a casting. If I ever appear in a movie it will be because someone thinks I’m fit for certain character.

V!M: You were born and raised in Paris, but spent the last ten years in NYC. Why do you prefer living here?
JRR: NYC is more casual, relaxed. I feel like I get more done in a day on this side of the ocean. Everything is easier and less time consuming.

V!M: Differences in fashion?
JRR: In NYC, fashion is about casual day, whereas in Paris it’s all about big galas. It seems like in New York everything is just more comfy. Paris is still so elegant, there’s still elegance you wont find anywhere else. New Yorkers are more courageous when it comes to fashion. In Paris you are watched more closely. If your skirt is too short, women will stare at you. In NYC you can wear whatever you like, and I love it.

V!M: And what is it that you wear with the biggest pleasure?
JRR: Black. Some people can match different patterns, fabrics, styles. I can’t. I grab a black t-shirt out of my closet, black skirt and think, well, great, that’s gonna really go great together! I wear black all the time, all year long. I go for long, hippie style dresses in summer time, when I’m tanned. My typical winter look: short black dress and black leather jacket. I don’t follow trends, but my mood. Sometimes I buy a piece inspired by old movies, sometimes I buy a leather coat. I like Alexander Wang, I’ve never left his store empty-handed. As for evening gowns, I like Valentino. His classic and elegant style makes me look like a princess.

V!M: If you were to pick your favorite accessory?
JRR: I would pick the purse I have with me today. Classic Chanel, perfect size, I can even fit my baby’s bottle in it. Perfect for errands around the city and evening galas. It’s something I can recommend: timeless things like Chanel’s purse that will make you look stylish even if you’re wearing an H&M dress.

V!M: Do you believe in suffering in the name of beauty?
JRR: You have to feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, but the truth is comfy clothes usually don’t make you feel good. Sometimes you have to suffer. High heels will always make you look slimmer and more elegant. My mom always says: you never know who you might run into in the street. If something you’re wearing isn’t really comfy, but makes you look great, I guarantee you’ll forget about the little pain you go through.

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Julia Restoin-Roitfeld editorial images © 2012 Viva! Moda. All Rights Reserved.